Curing and Drying Garlic After Harvest

The Art and Science of Curing Hardneck Garlic

Welcome to the wild and wacky world of curing hardneck garlic at GROeat Farm in Bozeman, where our motto is: Treat your garlic better than your in-laws, but maybe not quite as well as your dog. Curing garlic is like sending your bulbs to a fancy spa retreat—no sunburns allowed, lots of air circulation, and just the right amount of “me-time” to dry their leafy yoga pants. Picture rows of garlic hanging like little vampire-proof chandeliers in a dimly lit garlic ballroom, each bulb dreaming of its culinary destiny. Here in Montana, we take curing seriously—our fans work overtime, our barns smell like gourmet kitchens, and by the end of three weeks, those bulbs are ready to become legends.

Introduction

The hardneck garlic you’ve tended with the devotion of a poet through icy winters and sun-scorched summers, is now unearthed and a harvested treasure. But hold on—don’t rush to toss it into your kitchen just yet! There is another chapter to this fragrant saga, one that transforms your garlic from a scrappy garden hero into a culinary legend. It’s called curing, and it’s the magical process that gives your bulbs staying power, deepens their flavor, and makes you the envy of every garlic lover in your town.

Think of curing as a coming-of-age ritual for your garlic—its graduation from rebellious teenager to dignified adult. For three to four weeks, it will rest and dry, shedding its wild, earthy exterior to reveal a perfectly papery robe, ready to dazzle on any dish. This is where science meets art, and patience becomes your greatest ally. As you hang your garlic like rustic chandeliers or lay them gently in airy rows, you’ll find yourself marveling at the miracle of it all. Each bulb, a quiet triumph, carries the promise of savory soups, golden-roasted garlic chicken, and perhaps a few raised glasses to the garlic grower who made it all happen. Grow more garlic, dear friend—because in every clove lies a story waiting to be told, and ours is just beginning.

1. What Is Curing?

In the most basic sense, curing is the process of allowing freshly harvested hardneck garlic to dry out in a controlled environment. It’s similar to how some of us let that homemade sourdough loaf of bread sit on the counter for a day or two before diving in — just enough time for the flavors to really develop. For garlic, this process helps the outer skins dry and harden, sealing the cloves inside. Without curing, garlic can rot or shrivel up quickly, so curing is a crucial step in preserving that garlic for the months (or even years) ahead. And, DO NOT WAIT TOO LONG to harvest. Harvest garlic when the bottom three leaves turn yellow and begin to droop to the ground.

2. Why Do We Cure Garlic?

Why indeed? It seems like such an extra step, doesn’t it? After all, it’s already grown! But curing garlic does a few important things:

Preservation: Garlic that hasn’t been cured is like that loaf of bread you forgot to eat — it’s going to get moldy, soft, and unpleasant to deal with. Curing helps it stay crisp and viable for months.
Flavor Enhancement: Cured garlic develops a deeper, more mellow flavor. It’s a little like how wine gets better with age (although we wouldn’t recommend drinking your garlic... unless you're into that kind of thing). Freshly Squeezed Garlic?
Tightens the skin: When garlic is harvested, the skins can be a little loose and damp. Curing tightens those skins, which helps protect the cloves from external damage.
Prevents Mold: It’s a little gross, but true — curing helps prevent the growth of mold that can appear when garlic is stored too soon or too wet.

3. How Long Does It Take to Cure Garlic?

Patience, garlic-grower, patience. Curing garlic can take anywhere from 3 to 4 weeks depending on the humidity, temperature, and the garlic’s overall health. Think of it like a vacation for your garlic. It gets to hang out in a cozy, well-ventilated area where it can dry out before it gets put to work in the kitchen. Don’t rush it! The curing process takes time to do its magic.

4. What Happens to the Garlic Bulb During Curing?

Here’s where the magic happens. As garlic cures, several things are going on:

The moisture inside the garlic begins to evaporate.
The outer skins (there are many layers) tightens up, providing a protective layer.
The garlic will start to develop that powerful, rich garlic flavor we know and love.

It’s like the garlic is going on a little spa retreat, shedding all its extra water weight and getting more flavorful by the minute. The difference between garlic that’s freshly dug from the ground and garlic that’s been cured is remarkable. Cured garlic is a little firmer, a little drier, and has an almost nutty sweetness to it. It's worth the wait.

5. Does Each Leaf on a Hardneck Garlic Plant Correspond to a Protective Skin Wrapper on the Garlic Bulb?

Great question! Yes, it does. Each of those beautiful, vibrant, flat leaves on your hardneck garlic plant is tied to a layer of protective skin on the garlic bulb. The leaves are sort of like garlic’s protective umbrella during the growing season, sheltering the bulb beneath from the harshest elements. When curing, these skins continue to dry and harden, preserving the garlic inside and ensuring it can survive until you’re ready to cook with it.

6. Does Curing Help with Long-Term Storage?

Yes, absolutely! Curing garlic properly allows you to store it for months (or even up to a year) without losing quality. A well-cured bulb will be firm and dry, with a crisp, papery skin that keeps the cloves safe from pests, mold, and rot. The key to long-term storage is a balance of moisture and temperature. Keep your cured garlic in a cool, dry place (not the fridge!) and it’ll last until you need it for those cozy winter stews and pizza parties.

7. Harvest the Entire Plant and Hang the Entire Plant?

This is the most common way to cure garlic, and it’s effective! Harvesting the entire plant — leaves, stalk, and bulb — and hanging it with the bulb-side down is the classic approach. The garlic continues to dry, and the leaves provide extra protection. It’s like having a little garlic tent to keep the air circulating while it dries. The stems also help keep the bulbs from touching the ground, which can help prevent mold from forming.

8. What About Japan’s Method? Trimming the Leaves and Only Leaving Twelve Inches of the Hardneck Stem?

Ah, the Japanese method! It’s different, but it works. In Japan, it’s common to trim the garlic plant’s leaves, leaving about 12 inches of stalk. Then they hang the garlic in bunches to cure. Some say it’s to save space or to promote better air circulation, but either way, it’s a reliable way to cure garlic, especially for those with limited space. If you're feeling adventurous, try it out and see how it works for you. Just remember, your garlic might not look as majestic with the stalks trimmed — but it’ll still taste amazing after it cures.

9. What if I Live in a Climate with High Humidty During Summer?

Garlic growers in regions with high humidity during the summer face unique challenges when curing their harvest, as excessive moisture can promote the growth of molds, which not only affect appearance but can also compromise storage. To combat these conditions, creating an environment with optimal airflow is critical.

One effective method is using fans in combination with raised racks or slatted surfaces to ensure air circulates freely around the bulbs. This prevents moisture from lingering and reduces the risk of mold development. Keeping the curing area shaded and well-ventilated is essential—direct sunlight can overheat the bulbs, while enclosed spaces trap humidity. A dehumidifier can also be a game-changer for growers in particularly wet climates, helping maintain the low-humidity conditions that garlic curing requires.

Another approach to managing high humidity is adapting the traditional hanging method. Instead of leaving the full plant intact, trimming the leaves down to about one foor, twelve inches and removing the lowest green leaf shortly after harvest helps reduce the mass of material that retains moisture. This also exposes the bulb to better airflow and speeds up the drying process. If bulbs are muddy at harvest due to wet soil, some growers may opt for using a soft brush, such as a paint brush, to remove as much of the mud and dirt as possible. By combining these methods, growers in humid regions can still achieve a proper cure, preserving their garlic for months of flavorful use.

10. Upright or Upside Down?

There are several methods for drying and curing garlic, and the best approach often depends on the specific variety, climate, and available space. Here are a few popular methods:

Hanging Upright or Upside Down

Hanging garlic bulbs upright or upside down is a popular method for drying and curing. Hanging the bulbs down (bulb-side down) is often preferred, as it allows moisture to naturally drain downwards due to gravity. This helps speed up the curing process and ensures an even dry.

Bunching with Zip Ties or String

To hang garlic bulbs, you can bunch them together using zip ties or string. This method allows for good air circulation around each bulb and helps prevent moisture from accumulating. Simply tie the stems together, leaving enough space between each bulb for air to circulate. Tighten the zip tiew as the leaves dehydrate.

Hanging in Bunches

Hanging garlic bulbs in bunches is another effective method. This approach allows for good air circulation and helps prevent moisture from accumulating. Simply hang the bunched garlic bulbs in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area, such as a shed, garage, or kitchen.

Laying Flat on a Well-Ventilated Mesh or Chicken Wire Material

For larger quantities of garlic, laying the bulbs flat on a well-ventilated mesh or fencing material can be an effective method. This approach allows for excellent air circulation around each bulb and helps prevent moisture from accumulating. Simply spread the garlic bulbs out in a single layer, making sure they don't touch each other.

Key Considerations for Drying and Curing Garlic

Regardless of the method chosen, there are several key considerations to keep in mind when drying and curing garlic:

Air circulation: Good air circulation is essential for drying and curing garlic. Make sure the bulbs have enough space around them for air to circulate.

Temperature: Garlic prefers a warm, dry temperature between 60°F to 80°F (15°C to 27°C) for drying and curing.

Humidity: Garlic prefers a relatively low humidity environment, ideally below 60%.

Light: Garlic can be sensitive to direct sunlight, so it's best to provide indirect light or shade.

11. Does Sunlight Affect the Garlic?

Sunlight can indeed cause sunburn on your garlic bulbs, and just like us, garlic doesn’t look good with skin cancer. Too much direct sunlight can damage the outer skin, causing it to crack or burn, which can reduce the garlic’s shelf life. The goal is to dry your garlic in a well-ventilated space — something like a garage, shed, or basement.

12. Ventilation and Air Circulation

Air circulation is essential when curing garlic. Garlic needs airflow to dry properly. Without proper ventilation, garlic can become moldy or overly damp, which defeats the purpose of curing altogether. Hang your garlic in a space where air can flow freely, and consider using a fan if the air is particularly still. If your garlic has room to breathe, it’ll thank you by staying firm and flavorful.

13. How to Remove the Roots and Dirt from the Bulbs?

Overzealous scrubbing can strip away protective layers and invite premature aging. Let's give our garlic a spa treatment fit for a bulb, ensuring it remains vibrant and ready to season our dishes for months to come. After the garlic bulbs have cured and dried, the roots and dirt can be easily removed. The dry, brittle roots can be simply brushed or rubbed off, leaving the clean, dry bulbs behind. This process is a result of the drying and reactions that occur during the curing process, which help to break down the cellular structure of the roots and make them easier to remove.

14. No Need to Cure the Seed Garlic for Planting

Growing hardneck garlic is a labor of love, but it doesn't have to be a labor of masochism. Why spend precious post-harvest hours fussing over garlic that's simply going back into the ground? Let's cut to the chase: those plump, dirty bulbs destined for the autumn garden can skip the spa treatment. No need for a luxurious bath or a sun-soaked vacation. Just toss 'em in the ground, dirty and all. After all, a little dirt never hurt anyone, especially not a garlic clove. So, let's raise a glass of hydration to lazy gardening hacks!

15. What Happens If We Harvest Garlic After a Heavy Rain?

Ah, the rain. It’s every garlic grower’s friend and foe. While rain is necessary for growth, harvesting garlic right after a heavy rain can lead to trouble. If garlic is too wet when harvested, it might mold during curing. If you absolutely must harvest after rain, make sure to dry the garlic off before hanging it. Try to harvest on a dry day whenever possible, to minimize moisture on your bulbs.

With a little patience and the right conditions, your garlic will be transformed into a culinary powerhouse that can last through the winter and beyond. And the best part? You’ll have the satisfaction of knowing you’ve cared for your garlic every step of the way. Now go ahead, hang those bulbs, and prepare to savor the fruits (or should we say cloves) of your labor!

Garlic Harvest and Curing 101.

Harvest: The Timing Tango

Harvesting garlic is like landing a plane—you’ve got to hit the sweet spot. Garlic bulbs double in size during their final growth stage, so leaving them in the ground as long as possible is ideal. But beware! If you wait too long, the cloves will start separating, like an awkward family reunion, and no one wants to buy or store a bulb that’s already packing its bags.

Here’s your checklist:

Wait until about 40% of the leaves are yellow but 60% are still green.
Take a peek inside. Slice through a bulb sideways to check if the cloves are plump and snug in their wrappers. If they’re lounging like kids in oversized hoodies, give them more time.
Harvest before the bulbs "pop" (a phenomenon that can sneak up on you, especially during a soggy summer). Better to pull them out a tad early than let them overstay their welcome.

Use a hand tool or mechanical undercutter to loosen the soil before you pull. Yanking a bulb out of tightly packed earth risks tearing its delicate neck and inviting fungal freeloaders. Oh, and no matter how tempted you are, avoid channeling your inner action hero by banging bulbs against your boots. Gently shake or rub off dirt instead—you’re curing garlic, not breaking up a fight.

Curing: Garlic’s Spa Treatment

Garlic curing is all about creating a Goldilocks environment—not too hot, not too humid. You want those outer skins dry and crispy, the necks constricted, and the center of the stems harder than your resolve when someone suggests peeling garlic with a butter knife.

What to avoid: Direct sun (unless you want garlic jerky) and poorly ventilated barns (unless you enjoy the smell of rotting alliums).
What to aim for: A well-ventilated area, ideally with shade cloths and open sides for airflow.
Lay bulbs roots-up on a 1-inch wire mesh, or hang them like little aromatic chandeliers. They’ll be fully cured in two or three weeks (or maybe longer given the ambient air humidity), which is basically a garlic eternity.

Once cured, you can snip the stems if you like, though leaving them long adds rustic charm for farmer's market aesthetics.

Storage: The Garlic Retirement Plan

Now that your garlic is cured, it’s time to stash it somewhere safe. Like fine wine or eccentric relatives, garlic bulbs thrive in the right conditions.

Short-term: Keep bulbs at 68–86°F with low humidity (<75%). They’ll last a couple of months but eventually shrivel like forgotten grapes.
Long-term: Aim for 32–45°F and 50% relative humidity. Under these chill vibes, garlic can snooze contentedly for 6–7 months.
Seed garlic: Store at 50°F with 50% humidity. Avoid prolonged stays at 40–50°F unless you’re looking to break dormancy faster than a kid on Christmas morning.

Keep airflow high and humidity low. Too much moisture invites mold and root growth, while overly dry conditions will have your bulbs resembling fossilized artifacts.

Seed Garlic: No VIP Treatment

Seed garlic is the foundation of a successful garlic harvest, a literal investment in the next growing season. After the harvest, set aside your largest, healthiest bulbs—these are the ones that will likely produce the strongest plants. Resist the temptation to cook with these beauties! Instead, plan ahead by determining how many garlic plants you hope to grow next year. For hardneck varieties like porcelain garlic, each bulb typically contains six cloves, translating to six new plants. By calculating your needs now, you can ensure a robust and plentiful crop when harvest time rolls around again.

Unlike garlic destined for the kitchen or market, seed garlic doesn’t need curing or cleaning. Keep it as natural as possible, with its papery skins intact to protect the cloves until planting. Around Halloween, when autumn whispers of winter’s approach, plant each clove about three inches deep in well-prepared soil, leaving six inches of space between them. Each clove is a promise of growth, a tiny capsule of potential. Tuck them into the earth and let nature take over—come spring, these cloves will sprout into the first green signs of a new season.

The Bottom Line

Curing garlic is both an art and a science, requiring equal parts care, patience, and humor. Think of freshly harvested garlic as delicate newborns—they’re fragile, full of promise, and utterly dependent on your tender care. At GROeat Farm, our golden rule is to treat garlic bulbs as you would apples: don’t bruise them, bash them, or expose them to harsh elements. Whether you prefer to hang the plants like rustic garlands or trim them for efficiency, the goal is the same: to coax the garlic into its peak storage state. For three weeks, the bulbs undergo their transformation. Keep them out of the sun, circulate air with fans, and wait until their stems are as dry as an old corn husk. Then, like a proud parent, remove the fans and marvel at your cured beauties.

Generations of garlic growers have hung entire plants in dark spaces to dry, but in humid summers, this traditional method can feel like hosting a mold convention. If it’s been an unusually wet season, you might be tempted to rinse muddy bulbs. Don't get the bulbs wet as this can promote mold and disease. Instead, embrace the methodical charm of cleaning at harvest and let those fans work their magic. By the time curing is done, your garlic will be a marvel of durability and aroma, ready to grace kitchens and meals with its earthy, spicy perfection.