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Writer's pictureJere Folgert

Why Cure Garlic?

Updated: Jul 31

Curing is a critical post-harvest process that reduces moisture content, inhibits microbial growth, and enhances storage longevity. This process transforms fresh garlic into a stable product with extended shelf life.


Drying garlic is called curing, and it's like giving your garlic a spa treatment to get it ready for long-term storage. During curing, moisture in the roots and leaves evaporates or moves into the bulb. As this happens, the skins and paper wrappers around the cloves shrink and tighten, essentially sealing the bulb in its own natural wrapper.


Optimal Curing Conditions

Temperature: Ideal range is 60-85°F (15-27°C). Higher temperatures accelerate drying but can damage cloves.

  • Humidity: Low humidity is essential (20-60%) to prevent mold growth.

  • Airflow: Good circulation is crucial for moisture evaporation. Fams work well here.


Curing Methods

  • Hanging: Traditionally used, involves creating small bunches and hanging them in a dry, airy space. Use zip ties to bind the bundles. Tighten as they dry.

  • Rack Curing: Lay garlic bulbs on racks in a single layer for even drying.

  • Net Curing: Individually hang bulbs in nets for maximum airflow.


Curing Duration

Typically 3 weeks (2-4 weeks), depending on conditions. Garlic is cured when the outer skin is papery, the neck is shriveled, and the cloves are firm. The leaves of the garlic plant will be dry and crispy.


As the garlic dries, the energy and nutrients from the leaves travel into the bulbs. Over time, the vascular tissues in the stems close up, and the skins on the bulbs harden, creating the perfect conditions for long-term storage.


Small garlic bulbs might be fully cured in a week or two if the weather is warm and dry. Larger bulbs could take up to four weeks or more, especially if it's cool or humid. If you trim and process the garlic too soon, while it’s still moist and green, you risk the cut areas becoming contaminated with mold, viruses, or fungi, leading to spoilage. So, patience is key for perfectly cured garlic!


At GroEat Garlic Farm, we suspend the entire garlic plant (leaves, stem, bulb, and roots) bulb-side down, allowing the flavors and juices stored in the leaves and stalk to migrate into the cloves, maximizing flavor. Imagine it as a garlic juice slide! Some garlic farmers trim the leaves and place the bulbs on mesh screens to expedite curing. While this method reduces curing time, we believe it compromises flavor. Why rush perfection when you can have garlic that’s been marinated in its own deliciousness?

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Garlic Plant Tissue System

Begin with the Harvest.

Our saga begins nine lunar cycles ago, with the sacred ritual of depositing Allium sativum cloves into the earthen cradle. Patience, a cornerstone of scientific inquiry, became paramount. We awaited a celestial alignment prophesied by ancient weather oracles – the elusive "dry spell." Finally, the divining rods twitched, and the heavens withheld their tears for a period exceeding seven solar rotations.


Prior to the grand excavation, a strategic maneuver was executed. The floral scape, a fleeting phallus of frivolity, was excised approximately one lunar revolution prior. To ensure optimal data collection (and minimize olfactory distress to unsuspecting colleagues), each entire A. sativum specimen – a glorious tapestry of stem, leaf, bulbous treasure, and root tendrils – was meticulously transported to a sun-deprived environment.


Behold! The unearthed bounty! The pungent aroma, a symphony of sulfuric compounds, filled the air, a testament to the success of our cultivation. With the meticulousness of brain surgeons, we dislodged errant soil particles from the root network, taking extreme caution to avoid any physical trauma to the precious bulbs. Time was of the essence! Within mere hours of this terrestrial extraction, the lowest photosynthetic appendage was eliminated, a cleansing ritual to appease the garlic gods.


In a radical departure from traditional practices, we opted to forgo the barbaric amputation of the root system and the umbilical cord to the mother plant. This, you see, was a scientific rebellion! We hypothesized that these very appendages would exert a moderating influence on the sacred drying process, a variable of paramount importance.

The fruits (or rather, bulbs) of our labor are now consumable. While the taste may not have reached its full apogee, the option for immediate garlic-infused gratification beckons!



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Harvested Garlic Plants

Do Not Wash The Bulbs

The human inclination towards the application of H2O for decontamination purposes is undeniable. However, in the realm of Allium sativum (garlic), a surprising paradox emerges. While logic dictates a thorough cleansing, a curious phenomenon befalls the washed bulb. Its once-proud papery sheath, a testament to natural selection's brilliance, contorts into a wrinkled mess, resembling a pug after a particularly vigorous belly rub.


Unwashed specimens, on the other hand, maintain their sleek, tightly-wrapped appearance, a silent disco of clove protection. The scientific jury remains divided on the efficacy of the ablution ritual. While some posit a negligible impact, seasoned garlic farmers (a breed known for their pungent wisdom) report the development of disconcertingly puckered wrappers after a mere lunar cycle.


The culprit, it seems, is the insidious villain – moisture. This rogue molecule, introduced by the washing process, not only extends the garlic's "curing" time (a period of intense self-reflection, some might say), but also fosters the unwelcome arrival of mold – a microscopic party crasher with a penchant for spoiling the whole affair.


Therefore, we stand at a crossroads. Do we succumb to the primal urge to cleanse, risking a sartorial disaster for our garlic bulbs? Or do we embrace the natural, unwashed aesthetic, potentially inviting unwanted guests to the drying party? The answer, dear reader, lies in your own personal risk tolerance and your affinity for wrinkle-free garlic.



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Do Not Wash Garlic

How Long Does Curing Take? How long we let the garlic cure, depends on where we live, our environment, the size of our bulbs, and the weather. The garlic variety and bulb size can also dictate how long it takes to cure. In Montana, where the humidity is very low in August, it may only take 2-3 weeks for the garlic to cure at 60-70 Fahrenheit. In Maine, during a wet, cool summer, it may take much longer for the garlic to cure.



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Average Relative Humidity

Find a Good Place to Cure Garlic

Following the triumphant extraction of Allium sativum (garlic) from the earthen cradle, the focus shifts to the critical phase – desiccation. Here, we delve into the various methodologies employed to achieve optimal moisture reduction, ensuring the long-term viability of these pungent treasures.


The Moderating Influence of the Root Network:

Contrary to conventional wisdom, the root system is not severed upon harvest. These subterranean extensions serve a crucial role, acting as a natural hygroscopic buffer. By retaining a degree of moisture, they temper the drying process, preventing the bulbs from undergoing rapid dehydration and potential structural damage.


The Tyranny of Sunlight:

Direct solar radiation presents a significant threat to the integrity of the garlic bulbs. The intense photonic bombardment can effectively "cook" the cloves, altering their chemical composition and compromising their culinary utility. This phenomenon highlights the importance of a shaded, well-ventilated environment for successful desiccation.


The Art of the Hanging Cure: A Time-Honored Tradition:

A time-tested technique involves the creation of bundled garlic "stalactites." Here, multiple plants are bound together with a fibrous filament (string) and suspended from a rafter or other elevated location. This method, championed by the "veteran Allium sativum cultivators," facilitates optimal air circulation around the entire bulb, promoting uniform drying. However, the act of tying and untying these bundles can be a labor-intensive endeavor.


The Horizontal Alternative: A Labor-Saving Approach:

For those seeking a more streamlined approach, the option of laying the entire, unwashed plants in a single layer exists. A chicken wire or wire mesh platform provides the ideal foundation, maximizing airflow across all surfaces of the garlic. To further expedite the drying process, the introduction of electric fans to augment air circulation can be highly beneficial.


The Importance of Dynamic Airflow:

During the initial desiccation period (approximately 7-10 days), a crucial step involves the manual rotation of each plant on a daily basis. This ensures even drying and prevents the formation of localized moisture pockets that could foster mold growth.


A Symphony of Techniques: Selecting the Optimal Method:

The beauty of garlic desiccation lies in its inherent flexibility. There exists no single, universally perfect approach. The most effective method is often dictated by personal preference, available resources, and the prevailing environmental conditions. Regardless of the chosen technique, the paramount principle remains – the creation and maintenance of a dynamic air circulation system to facilitate the efficient removal of moisture, ensuring the long-term health and robust flavor of our beloved Allium sativum.


When is Curing Complete?

When the curing process is complete, roots should be fully dried off and should break apart easily if you rub the roots onto a leather glove. Leaves should be dry with a brown or light tan color. The hardneck stems should be dry, and you should be able to unwrap the many layers that comprise the stem. The outer wrapper will feel papery and shrunken when the garlic is dry. The cloves should not be visible. Instead they should be tightly wrapped in the outer papery skin should look like a snow-covered hillside.

Assessing Desiccation Completion in Allium sativum: A Multimodal Approach

Determining the successful desiccation (curing) of Allium sativum (garlic) necessitates a multifaceted evaluation, encompassing a battery of physical assessments.


Root System:

  • Visual Inspection: The root network should exhibit a complete absence of residual moisture.

  • Tactile Evaluation: When rubbed against a leather glove, the roots should readily fracture, demonstrating their complete desiccation.


Foliar Integrity:

  • Coloration: The leaves should be entirely devoid of moisture, exhibiting a brown or light tan color.

  • Structural Integrity: The leaves should be brittle and easily crumble.


Stem Analysis (Hardneck Garlic Only):

  • Desiccation Confirmation: The stem should be demonstrably dry, allowing for the easy unwrapping of its constituent layers.

  • Outer Wrapper: This outermost layer, indicative of the curing process, should possess a papery texture and exhibit signs of shrinkage.


Bulb Evaluation:

  • Clove Concealment: The individual cloves should be entirely obscured from view, tightly encased within the protective sheath of the outer papery skin.

  • Visual Analogy: The ideal appearance of the cured bulb closely resembles a snow-covered hillside – a uniform expanse of white, uninterrupted by any exposed cloves.



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Dried Garlic Roots

Final Processing After Curing

After the garlic is cured, we trim off the roots and cut the stem about one or two inches from the top of the bulb. We use a heavy-grit piece of sandpaper or a sandpaper "block" to free and remove dirt from the root area. Artificial turf also works well for removing dirt from the root area of the bulb. Use a toothbrush, paint brush or soft utility brush to remove dirt from the outer paper wrappings covering the bulb. The outer layer of the wrapper can be removed if further cleaning is desired, but try not to remove much more than that, or your garlic won't last as long as it should. We like to retain at least and inch and 1/2 of stem, which makes the garlic easy to handle. Having a longer stem also helps with "popping" or "breaking" a garlic clove before planting.

Following the successful desiccation of Allium sativum (garlic), a final round of meticulous processing ensures optimal bulb integrity and facilitates long-term storage viability.


Root System and Stem Removal:

  • Strategic Excision: The root network is carefully severed using a sterilized implement. This minimizes the potential for the introduction of pathogens during the storage period.

  • Stem Abbreviation: The stem is strategically pruned, leaving approximately 1-2 inches proximal to the bulb. This retained segment serves a dual purpose:

  • Enhanced Handling: The extended stem facilitates easier manipulation of the bulb during storage and subsequent use.

  • Planting Facilitation: A longer stem proves advantageous during the clove "popping" or "breaking" process prior to planting, allowing for a firmer grip and minimizing clove damage.


Debridement Techniques:

  • Abrasive Cleaning: A coarse-grained sandpaper block is employed to meticulously remove any residual soil particles adhering to the root area. This approach ensures a clean and aesthetically pleasing final product.

Alternative Debridement Methods:

  • Synthetic Turf Scrubbing: For a gentler yet equally effective approach, some cultivators utilize a section of artificial turf to dislodge stubborn dirt particles from the root zone.

Bulb Sheath Cleaning:

  • Impartial Brushwork: A soft-bristled implement, such as a toothbrush or paintbrush, is meticulously employed to remove any superficial dirt or debris clinging to the outer papery sheaths (tubers) of the bulb. This delicate process preserves the natural protective layers while maintaining a clean appearance.


Selective Desheathing (Optional):

  • Balancing Aesthetics and Longevity: While the outermost layer of the papery sheath can be removed for a visually more appealing product, it is crucial to exercise restraint. Excessive removal of these protective layers compromises the bulb's long-term storage viability. We recommend retaining at least 1.5 inches of the stem for optimal handling and clove-breaking purposes, while also preserving a sufficient amount of the outer sheath to ensure extended storage life.

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Cutting the Hardneck

Storing Garlic.

Properly cured garlic will store well for several months. Obviously, humidity, temperature, and air flow all play key roles in determining how well garlic will store. A “cool, dark place” is the typical recommendation though there is no exact science to storing garlic. The recommended storage condition is right around 55°F, with 60 percent humidity, with some air circulation. Storing garlic in a refrigerator is not recommended as garlic tends to sprout at colder temperatures. Lower humidity may cause dehydration. Keep garlic out of direct sunlight, and if possible, away from a heat source. Keep in mind that as cured garlic rests in storage, additional moisture will evaporate. Avoid peeling garlic bulbs or cloves until the time of use.


Following desiccation and meticulous processing, the garlic embarks on its final chapter – extended storage. Here, we delve into the scientific underpinnings of optimal storage conditions, ensuring the long-term viability and quality of our Allium sativum bounty.


The Critical Trio: Humidity, Temperature, and Airflow

The successful storage of garlic hinges on a delicate interplay between three environmental factors:

  • Humidity: A relative humidity level of approximately 60% is paramount. Lower humidity levels can accelerate dehydration, leading to shrunken and shriveled cloves. Conversely, excessive humidity fosters an environment conducive to mold growth.

  • Temperature: An ideal storage temperature falls within the range of 55°F (12.8°C). Colder temperatures promote premature sprouting, while warmer environments can accelerate moisture loss and compromise the bulb's integrity.

  • Air Circulation: The presence of adequate air circulation is crucial to prevent the buildup of moisture and the subsequent proliferation of mold. However, excessive air movement can contribute to dehydration.


The Fallacy of the "Cool, Dark Place"

While the adage of storing garlic in a "cool, dark place" holds some merit, it lacks scientific precision. A root cellar or a dedicated, temperature-controlled environment adhering to the aforementioned parameters provides the ideal storage solution.


The Detriments of Refrigeration:

Storing garlic within a domestic refrigerator is generally discouraged. The colder temperatures often encountered in this environment trigger premature sprouting, rendering the cloves unusable for culinary purposes.


A Delicate Balance: Maintaining Optimal Humidity

It's important to acknowledge that as the garlic rests in storage, a certain degree of additional moisture evaporation will naturally occur.  Monitoring the humidity levels within the storage environment may be necessary, with adjustments made as needed to maintain the optimal 60% range.


Preserving Freshness: Delay Peeling

To maximize the garlic's freshness and quality throughout storage, it's highly advisable to refrain from peeling the bulbs or cloves until immediately before use. The intact papery sheath serves as a natural barrier, protecting the cloves from moisture loss and potential spoilage.


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Wagon Full of Harvested Garlic

United States Standards for Grades of Garlic.

In September 2016 United State Department of Agriculture document, titled "United States Standards for Grades of Garlic", The director of Speciality Crops describes how grade standards are available for use by producers, suppliers, buyers, and consumers. As in the case of other standards for grades of fresh vegetables, and specialty crops these standards are designed to facilitate orderly marketing by providing a convenient basis for buying and selling, for establishing quality control programs, and for determining loan values.





Grade : “U.S. No. 1” consists of garlic of similar varietal characteristics which is mature and well cured, compact, with cloves well filled and fairly plump, free from mold, decay, shattered cloves, and from damage caused by dirt or staining, sunburn, sunscald, cuts, sprouts, tops, roots, disease, insects, or mechanical or other means. Each bulb shall be fairly well enclosed in its outer sheath. Unless otherwise specified, the minimum diameter of each bulb shall be not less than 1-1/2 inches. (a) Tolerances. In order to allow for variations incident to proper grading and handling, the following tolerances, by weight, are provided as specified: (1) For defects. Ten percent for garlic in any lot which fails to meet the requirements of this grade, including therein not more than 2 percent for garlic which is affected by decay. (2) For size. Five percent for garlic in any lot which fails to meet any specified size. Reserved





















Jere Folgert is the owner of GroEat Garlic Farm in Bozeman, Montana. GroEat Farm is a small, sustainable family farm located in the beautiful Hyalite Foothills, in the shadows of the Gallatin Mountain Range.  The hardneck varieties that they grow on their farm flourish, due to the combination of the cold winters, temperate summers, moist spring, and the dynamic alluvial soils, washed down from the Gallatin Range.


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